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New Tree Planting

First, take the time to research native trees and their requirements, so that you plant the right tree in the right space. Check the Tree Catalogue.
  • Buy high-quality trees with visible trunk flares and healthy roots that are not crushed, torn, twisted or circled in the root ball.
  • Check trunk wraps for hidden wounds, bad pruning cuts or insect injuries.
  • Trees with single trunk leaders provide the best structure.

Second, observe a few pre-planting rules. Time your planting for the dormant season in fall or early spring, so newly-planted trees have an opportunity to establish root systems during the prime growing season. Locate all local utility lines and pipes.

Follow basic planting guidelines to counteract the transplant shock trees naturally suffer when they are relocated and replanted:

  • Broad, shallow planting holes are best, measured ideally to three times the diameter of the root ball.
  • Soil compaction impedes healthy root growth, but a broad planting hole will turn the soil and encourage growth and structure.
  • The greatest root production will be in the top 12” of soil.
  • Plant only as deep as the trunk flare, that point where the trunk flares out into roots.
    • Too deep planting reduces oxygen circulation which is vital to optimal root growth.
  • Lift trees by the root ball, never by the trunk.

Make certain your tree is centered straight into the planting hole, add soil back into the hole a couple inches at a time, settling with water in between layers. It is best to avoid fertilizer at planting, but mulching is recommended (see Mulch Gulch). A mulch layer (preferably organic) should be only two to four inches deep, avoiding the trunk base. Keep soil moist. Water once a week, unless it rains or more frequently in hot weather.

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